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How To Shoot With Nikon D3200

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How To Shoot With Nikon D3200

The great thing about using a DSLR camera is always that I can always feel certain that some things will remain unchanged from camera to camera. For me, fundamental essentials Aperture Priority (A) and Shutter Priority (S) shooting modes. Regardless of the subject I am shooting–from landscape to portrait to macro–I am typically going to be concerned with my depth of field. Whether it’s isolating my subject having a large aperture or looking to maximize the overall sharpness of an sweeping landscape, I always keep an eye on my aperture setting. If I need to control the action, I use Shutter Priority. If I am trying to create a silky waterfall effect, I can depend upon Shutter Priority mode to deliver the long shutter speed that gets the desired result. Or perhaps I am shooting a baseball game-I definitely need fast shutter speeds that can freeze the fast-moving action. 

I wanted to be sure the rope was frozen in midair, so I selected a shutter speed that would stop the action.

While the other camera modes get their place, I think you will find that, just like me and most other working pros, you will use the Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority modes for 90 percent of your respective shooting.

The other concern that I have when I am establishing my camera is definitely how low I can keep my ISO. This is always essential for me must be low ISO will provide the cleanest image. I improve the ISO only as being a last resort, because each increase in sensitivity can be an opportunity for more digital noise to penetrate my image. To that end, I always contain the Noise Reduction feature switched on.

To make quick changes while I shoot, I often utilize the Exposure Compensation feature (covered in Chapter 7) in order that I can make small over- and underexposure changes. This is unique of changing the aperture or shutter; it is more like fooling the digital camera meter into thinking the scene is brighter or darker pc actually is. To get to this function quickly, I simply press the Exposure Compensation/Aperture button, then dial inside desired quantity of compensation. Truth be told, I usually have this set to -1/3 so that there is merely a little bit of underexposure in my image. This usually leads to better color saturation. (Note: When shooting in Manual mode, the Exposure Compensation feature has to be set with the i button.)

One with the reasons I change my exposure is usually to make corrections when I start to see the “blinkies” inside my rear LCD. Blinkies will be the warning signal that portion of my image has become overexposed concise that I don’t have any detail inside the highlights. When the Highlight Alert feature is turned on, the display will flash wherever the possibility exists for overexposure. The monochrome flashing can look only in areas of the picture that are in danger of overexposure knowning that might experience a loss of detail.

Setting inside the Highlight Alert feature

Press the Menu button, then use the Multi-selector to gain access to the Playback Menu.
Once within the Playback Menu, move the Multi-selector to the Playback display options and press OK (A).
Select Additional photo info, and press the Multi-selector for the right (B).

Move the Multi-selector down to select the Highlights option, then press OK to put a checkmark next to the word Highlights (C).

Now move back up to select Done, and press OK again to freeze your change (D).

Once the highlight warning is turned on, I use it to check on my images for the rear LCD after going for a shot. If I see a location that is blinking , I will usually set the Exposure Compensation feature with an underexposed setting like -1/3 or -2/3 stops and take another photo, checking the result on the screen. I repeat this method until the warning is finished. 

The blinking white and black areas (shown in this image as black) certainly are a warning that area of the image is overexposed at the current camera settings.

Sometimes, such as when shooting in the sun, the warning will blink regardless of how much you adjust the exposure, since there is just no detail inside the highlights. Use your best judgment to ascertain if the warning is alerting you to definitely an area that you want to retain highlight detail.

To see the highlight, or “blinkie,” warning, you simply must change your display mode. To do this, press the Image Review button for the back from the camera and after that press up or down about the Multi-selector until you understand the word “Highlights” in the bottom from the display screen. This will now be your default display mode unless you change it or switch off the highlight warning.

As you choose to work your way through the coming chapters, you will observe other tricks and tips I use in my daily photography, nevertheless the most important tip I can give is that you should comprehend the features of you got it so that you can leverage the technology in the knowledgeable way. This will lead to better photographs.

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2 Responses
  • Brian Johnson
    September 20, 2012

    On my iMac I have Lightroom 4.1, Aperture 3.3, DxO 7.5, Pixelmator 2.1 & RPP and the D3200 RAW conversions from all these Apps look terribly soft compared to ViewNX2.
    Has anyone else noticed this?

    I also have a D5100 and the RAW’s look pretty much the same in all the Apps.

  • Andrew McGlinchey Wesleyan
    January 21, 2014

    Appreciating the persistence you put into your website and detailed information you offer.
    It’s good to come across a blog every once in a while that
    isn’t the same out of date rehashed material. Excellent read!
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